On Thursday, June 14th, we got on the bus again
and headed for Epidavros. This was
another temple complex, dedicated to Asklepios, god of healing, and therefore
one of the leading medical facilities in ancient Greece. Twenty years ago, Mary Joy and I were on
Santorini, and in a restaurant there we met an American couple with two young
children (6 and 8, maybe?). They had
been touring around. We asked them how
the children were handling it. Very well,
they replied, though their daughter had once asked “Why are we looking at all
these broken buildings?” Epidavros, like
Olympia and Delphi, has a lot of “broken buildings,” so it is hard to get a
feel for what it must have been like in its heyday in Hellenistic times. In the museum there is what may have been the
very first Corinthian column capital, elaborate with acanthus leaves, perhaps
used as a prototype for all the others, first at Epidavros, then elsewhere. On the grounds there was, oddly, the anchor
stone from a boat, probably an offering to the god.
The big draw at Epidavros, however, is the ancient theater, best-preserved
in all Greece, capable of seating 15,000, and still used today. The acoustics are amazing—words spoken in the
orchestra can easily be heard in the upper seats.
From Epidavros, we drove east to Metochi, where we left the
bus and got onto a small ferry boat, for the 20-minute crossing to the island
of Hydra. This would be another “vacation
from our vacation.” Hydra is popular
with weekenders from Athens. No
motorized vehicles are allowed on the small island. Goods are moved around by horse, mule or
donkey. People get around on foot or by
water taxi.
The group was divided between two hotels: Ippokampos and
Mistral: we were in the latter.
We went for lunch at Psarapoula, which has a terrace
overlooking the harbor. Very good.
Late that afternoon, the group had a “happy hour” with
drinks and snacks at the Ippokampos. We decided not to have a full dinner after that, but
eventually got some ice cream (made from goat milk) at the highly recommended
Flora’s sweet shop, served by the elderly Flora herself. Very nice.
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