Friday, June 29, 2018

Rural Crete

On Friday, June 1st, we picked up something to eat at Phyllo, just as it was opening, then, at 9:00, met Chania Adventures owner-guide (and former fighter pilot) Nasos and his four-wheel-drive minivan at the Starbucks a few blocks from our hotel.  Originally, from home, I had tried to arrange taking his "Milia Mountain Retreat" tour scheduled for Sunday, but he had e-mailed back that that wasn't available, but we could combine that with the olive oil and wine tasting tour on Friday, at no extra cost.  That worked perfectly well for us.

Nasos drove us to pick up a young pair of newlyweds from Chicago, then we went to Ano Vouves, where we saw a 3000-year-old olive tree and visited a museum relating to olives and olive oil.  Then we went to the Anoskeli olive mill and winery, where we toured the facility then sat down for a tasting of olive oil and five of their wines, with terrific snacks.

Next, Nasos dropped us off at one end of the Mesavlia gorge, and picked us up at the other end after we walked through it.  This was a short (less than an hour?), easy walk, through pleasant, but not spectacular scenery.  It in no way compared to what we would do the following day.

Then, we went up into the hills, to Milia Mountain Retreat, an old village restored and turned into an eco-resort.  The son of one of the founders had gone of to become a gourmet chef, and had come back to create perfection from traditional Cretan dishes, using local products.  We had lunch there.  I have never in my life had such wonderful moussaka, and the zucchini and potato dish was also very good.

Afterwards, we were able to visit one of the little houses used by visitors to the resort: a combination of rusticity and stylish comfort.

The last stop on our tour was at the cave of St. John the Hermit, a pilgrimage site with great views over Chania and the coast to the west.

Nasos is a very interesting person, a good guide and a great driver.  We enjoyed the day very much.

For dinner, we went to Tamam, recommended, near our hotel and very good.



































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